July 03, 2019
A touch of class
Of her many qualities, the most surprising is creating versatile jewels that change their face or function simply by being touched or rotated, resorting to solutions that are always new and sometimes stunning. We are talking, of course, about Laura Bicego, the Italian who created the Nanis brand in 1990 along with her husband Pietro Marangon. She started to exhibit at Baselworld from the outset, and we have interviewed her.
Ms Bicego, what new products are in the focus this year?
Laura Bicego: I have created new models for the three lines of Dancing in the Rain, our must-have collection. One is Reverse, which offers double-sided gems as the name implies. Then we have Aria, named for the module movement which is somewhat reminiscent of the celebrated arias of Italian opera. And finally the highly seductive Ivy, a necklace that can be worn round the neck or loosened and worn on the breast or shoulders, like a simple string of pearls. Another novelty is Ipanema, new not in name but in substance, with a design that combines necklaces and three-dimensional modules with earrings and bracelets.
Versatility aside, what adjectives would you choose to describe Nanis jewellery?
Wearable, because wearability is the essence of jewellery. I like to design things that women can put on for the sheer pleasure of completing their look, as they would with a pair of shoes or a fashion accessory, and it makes me happy to think that they can feel at one with the jewellery I have designed. Then I call my jewels contemporary. But they are also well made and finished: I am a goldsmith by family tradition, every detail is studied with meticulous care, the closure of every model is designed ad hoc, every pavé differs from the next by how the stones are arranged and the choice of colours, gold surfaces are finished with a burin tool. And then let’s face it: I feel enormous satisfaction every time a woman tells me that she only carries one of my jewels with her when she’s travelling, because it is comfortable and light, and she can wear it with jeans as well as on a black dress. Then, even though it had almost slipped my mind, our jewels are valuable.
Do you continue to play with tone-on-tone combinations when choosing stones?
Yes, it may be a less easy choice than others, but it enhances the charm of the jewels. Today there are four main nuances. Red, with amethysts, pink sapphires and rhodolites. Blue, with blue sapphire, blue topaz and London blue topaz. And the offshoots: yellow, with citrine, lemon quartz and smoking quartz, and green, with green amethyst, green sapphire and an original double: labradorite with natural green pigment.