June 12, 2019
It’s all natural
Whether clouds or waves, blossoms or leaves, roots or stones: no matter how often we may have noticed these things, the sight of natural, organic and above all floral forms and colours repeatedly fills us with delight. Our pleasure is even greater when jewellery and watch designers turn their inventive minds to this theme and translate it into precious, wearable, miniature works of art.
They were still a secret during Baselworld, but the earrings from Chopard’s “Red Carpet Collection 2019”(which was launched on the occasion of the Cannes Film Festival), have long since become quintessential objects of desire. This year, the Swiss luxury house chose the theme “Love” in all its facets as the topic for its collection, which comprises 72 models. The impressive flower earrings are made of lightweight titanium and are set with opal cabochons (9.7 carats), brilliant-cut diamonds (31.6 carats), pink sapphires (20 carats) and tsavorites (11.5 carats).
Each year, Chopard delights collectors with a sophisticated Métiers d’art timepiece whose muse is the gorgeous peony. 2019 is no exception: For the “L.U.C XP Esprit by Fleurier Peony”, limited to just eight pieces, the Maison called on its “Mains d’art” (artistic hands). The dial is a dazzling combination of crafts such as gold engraving, transfer printing and mother-of-pearl cutting; while its movement – a 35 mm L.U.C Calibre 96.23-L. designed and produced by the Chopard Manufacture – is entirely decorated with floral engraving in “Fleurisanne” technique, now a rare art that is perfectly mastered by Chopard’s artisans.
Graff’s triangular earrings dance like precious sails on their wearer’s ears. Small, deep red, navette-shaped rubies serve as colourful eye-catchers. The rubies are arranged so that they look like dainty red flowers in the midst of sparkling diamonds. The special charm of the design derives in large part from the charming contrast between the austere outer silhouette of the piece and the playful floral design in the interior of the graphic form.
The Italian luxury fashion brand Gucci is expanding its “Flora” line of fine jewellery with a selection of new 18 karat white gold jewellery. In addition to bracelets, necklaces and rings, the line also includes earrings with white diamonds and pearls. The special feature of the earrings is that they combine different motifs to create the currently trendy asymmetrical look. Inspired by the beauty of nature, the new “Flora” designs always unite diamond-studded flower motifs with the brand’s characteristic GG detail.
Jacob & Co.
With the exquisite “Fleurs de Jardin”, entirely shrouded in pink sapphires, Jacob & Co. offers a highly charming and animated spring garden for the female wrist. Inspired by the sophisticated mechanisms of the “Astronomia Solar” that utilises constantly moving parts, its dial boasts eleven flowers that bloom brilliantly in amethyst, tsavorites, citrines, garnets, rubies and blue and pink sapphires. To please the eyes of the beholder even more, the unique floral arrangement moves around the dial and features a 60-second flying tourbillon. The vertical movement with manual-winding boasts three arms that make a revolution around the central axis in ten minutes. It is topped by a Jacob-cut citrine with 288 facets.
Jacob & Co.
The current “Infinia” collection of white gold jewellery by Jacob & Co. highlights a stylized flower in a trendy retro look. A centrally set diamond, turquoise and coral elements forming floral shapes and diamond-studded leaves comprise the centre of each piece, around which numerous small white pearls seem to swirl. One reason why Jacob & Co. named this collection “Infinia” is because the deep colour and timeless essence of the gemstones, combined with the circular designs, symbolize a cycle of endless infatuation – an infinite love that lasts forever.
The latest collection by Leo Pizzo is dedicated to Venice, the city of canals where this Italian jewellery brand was born. The “Venezia” jewellery set is an outstanding example of fine Italian craftsmanship and consists of a bracelet, earrings, a ring and a necklace. The jewellery is crafted in white gold with teardrop-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds. Various inspirations are combined here: the Moorish vaults of Palazzo Ducale, one of Venice’s most beautiful buildings, on the one hand; and floral influences reminiscent of clover and petals on the other hand.
This young Canadian boutique brand which premiered at Baselworld 2019 vowed visitors at the show with “Dahlia C1” – a most beautiful and very creative interpretation of a flying tourbillon embedded in delicate flower petals. Carved gems are set around the tourbillon cage in the middle of the dial, which indicates hours and minutes. The case is crafted from white gold and set with diamonds. Beauregard offers a host of different executions with different gemstones.
If earrings could transport their wearers to exotic worlds, they would surely be Tamara Comolli’s “India Dreams” earrings. Delicate flowers, leaves and twigs in 18 karat rose gold unite with 0.24 carats of white brilliant-cut diamonds to make a truly romantic couple. The circa 3.5-cm-long earrings are reminiscent of elegant climbing plants and are also available in 18 karat yellow or white gold.
The 35-mm case of the “1942 Floral” watch is gently sculpted in a curved two-tier design, with round wire-style lugs complemented by an onion-style crown set with an onyx. These elements frame a dial with a background of mother-of-pearl that is punctuated by six powder-coated spring flowers that change colour once a day. The leaf-shaped hour and minute hands are cut-out to allow the colours of the flowers to shine through. The movement is quartz, and the strap is pale pink leather. It is also available on a metal bracelet or with a rose gold PVD case.
The “Thomas Frieden” collection by the Swiss jewellery manufacturer Frieden celebrates diamonds in all their manifestations and nuances of colour. The spectrum ranges from raw crystals in octahedral shape to historical cuts and modern brilliant-cut diamonds. Alongside unique designs, it is the extraordinary gemstone material per se that assures the exclusivity of jewellery such as the pendant in the “Feuille Divine” line: light and airy as springtime, its diamond-studded leaves and delicate colour compositions recall nature’s annual reawakening.
What does the Roman Emperor Caesar have to do with leaves? It is well known that the successful general liked to wear a laurel wreath around his head as a sign of his triumphs. This was reason enough for the Belgian jewellery brand Hulchi Belluni to choose “Caesar” as the name of its florally inspired jewellery line. Numerous small golden leaves – sometimes highly polished, sometimes paved with brilliant-cut diamonds – form precious rings, pendants and earrings that conjure images of a leafy sunlit forest.
Nomination’s new “Precious Blooms” from the “Composable Collection” is dedicated to nature’s simple and stunning creations and the symbolism we attribute to them: love, romance, luck and friendship. The collection features wistful dandelion clocks, iconic daisies and daffodils, a miniature tree of life and several simple flowers that are dazzling in cubic zirconia and distinctive in onyx, mother of pearl and coral. Each link is enhanced by 9 karat rose gold that adds feminine flair to each symbol in this precious collection.
The flexible and thus uncommonly comfortable necklace from Stenzhorn’s “Floral” collection is reminiscent of poppy blossoms gently swaying in a summer breeze. The jewellery manufactory used the “Mosaic Setting”, its signature technique, to fabricate the flowers’ immaculate petals. A total of 258 diamonds (7.40 carats) and 565 rubies (49.50 carats) nestle closely together without allowing the settings of the individual gems to be visible. This necklace is an example of extraordinary craftsmanship not least because each ruby had to be individually cut for a perfect fit.