六月 26, 2019
At home all over the world
GMT watches are the cosmopolitans in the world of chronometry because they offer a display of two time zones at once. In the age of global communication, jetsetters, business travellers and globetrotters truly appreciate this useful additional function that allows them to keep up to date yet still know what time it is somewhere else in the world. Here is a selection of this year’s debutantes.
Rolex – Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II
At Baselworld 2019, Rolex presented a new version of the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II with a bidirectional rotatable bezel and a two-colour 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert in blue and black ceramic. This watch, in Oystersteel and fitted with a Jubilee bracelet, echoes the GMT-Master II, introduced in 2018, which featured a Cerachrom bezel insert in red and blue ceramic. The light reflections on the case sides and lugs highlight the profile of the 40 mm Oyster case. This new version is equipped with calibre 3285, at the forefront of watchmaking technology, first introduced on the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II in 2018. Like all Rolex watches, the new GMT-Master II carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.
Patek Philippe – Calatrava Pilot Alarm Ref. 5520P
In the Ref. 5520P, Patek Philippe presented a new Grand Complication with a platinum case in the style of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time. Its exclusive time zone mechanism is supplemented by a 24-hour alarm with the traditional sound of a hammer striking a gong. The Travel Time time zone mechanism includes two hour hands from the centre – one solid for local time and the other skeletonised for the home time. On journeys the solid hand is simply adjusted forwards or backwards in steps of one hour with the aid of one of the two pushers. The two time zones also have day/night displays, with the date being synchronised with the hand for local time. The crown at four o’clock enables the alarm time to be set in 15-minute intervals. This is displayed in a double aperture that similarly includes a day/night display. Providing this unique functionality is the new self-winding AL 30-660 S C FUS calibre, comprising 574 individual parts.
Bulgari – Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic
The saga of the Octo Finissimo reached a new peak with a fifth world record at Baselworld. This year, Bulgari unveiled the slimmest mechanical chronograph ever built in the history of watchmaking. But that’s not all. The low-rise case crafted from titanium and ceramic contains calibre BVL 318, which is a mere 3.3 mm high, yet offers a GMT function and amasses a 55-hour power reserve. The 42-mm case surrounds a sand-blasted titanium dial and has a transparent back. With a height of just 6.9 mm, the case is similarly ultra-slim.
Porsche Design – 1919 Globetimer UTC
In the 1919 Globetimer UTC, Porsche Design presented a watch with a second time zone that is especially easy and precise to operate. The 12-hour display can be switched to local time at the press of a button. A day/night dial as am/pm indicator helps to select the correct local phase of the day. The date is linked to the local time and switches backwards and forwards automatically. A 24-hour hand displays the home time. Powering this ingenious mechanism is the innovative self-winding calibre in the three-part, 42-mm titanium case. The new Porsche Design Calibre Werk 04.110 is based on a Sellita SW-200 with bidirectional winding ball-bearing mounted rotor, which has been augmented by a Dubois Dépraz chronograph module. The automatic calibre bears a COSC certificate of tested precision.
Urban Jürgensen – One GMT
The independent watch brand presented a superbly crafted manufacture timepiece with sporty features and a second time zone. The home time display rises elegantly from the artistically designed guilloche dial at six o’clock. The second time zone can be easily adjusted forwards and backwards using the two pushers on the left-hand side of the case. A Super-Luminova coating for the hands and hour marker ensures optimum legibility in the dark. The 41-mm case made of surgical steel is water-tight down to 120 metres.
Oris – Aquis GMT Date
This debutant is the ultimate timepiece for diving enthusiasts with a yearning for travel because, thanks to a new bezel with a 24-hour scale, it now provides information on three time zones. The second time zone is clearly indicated by a hand in signal yellow, which stands out from the intensive blue dial with Super-Luminova digits. A further noteworthy feature is the 30-bar pressure resistance, demonstrating that the Oris Aquis GMT Date is also genuinely tough. The 43.5-mm stainless steel watch beats to the rhythm of the Oris 798 self-winding calibre based on the SW 330-1.
Seiko – Prospex LX Black Edition SNR035
At Baselworld 2019, Seiko presented a new collection of sports watches designed in collaboration with Ken Okuyama, the renowned Japanese industrial designer. Okuyama has worked as a chief designer for General Motors, senior designer for Porsche AG, and design director for Pininfarina S.p.A., where he was responsible for the Ferrari Enzo, Maserati Quattroporte and many other cars. The decidedly sporty and bold collection from Seiko is powered by the latest Spring Drive calibres. One of these new wristwatches is the LX Black Edition SNR035, which exudes a decidedly technical allure. Its titanium case is water-tight down to 100 metres, 44.8 mm in diameter and protected by a super-hard coating. Inside the case, the Spring Drive GMT 5R66 movement with second time zone and 72 hours of power reserve keeps time with fine precision.
Franck Dubarry – Crazy Wheel 2 Gravitational GMT
The latest design of the avant-garde Crazy Wheel combines sporting flair with an innovative display of the second time zone. In the complication developed in-house, the display of the home time is on the hour hand, which is indexed in twelve hourly steps. The Crazy Wheel 2 Gravitational GMT is available in six versions. All of them have an impressively dimensioned titanium case of 44 x 52 mm, with flanks made of carbon fibre. Attached to this is an especially resilient fabric strap made of Nomex, an innovative material that is also used in space and motor racing applications.